Iran’s Populous Capital - Tehran
By Ignatius Randall
Tehran is currently among the most densely populated capitals
on the planet, yet for many centuries Tehran was nothing more
than a small, insignificant city on the stage of world history.
Aga Muhammed Khan, founder of the Qajar dynasty, chose Tehran
as the capital of the Persian Empire in 1795, largely because of
its location on the cool Elbur hillsides. And so it has remained
to this very day. Only after a terrible earthquake in May 2004
was there heated discussion of moving the seat of government
from Tehran to a less earthquake prone region of the country.
Palaces and museums
The bulk of Tehran’s older buildings date back to the period of
Qajar rule in the nineteenth century. Foremost among these
structures is the Golestan, or Rose Garden Palace, the old seat
of the shahs until 1979. Today it serves as a museum, and its
most famous exhibit is the stunning Peacock Throne. Exactly
26,733 precious stones decorate this amazing throne of the
former Persian rulers. While there are always crowds in the
museum, the palace garden is a peaceful and beautiful oasis in
the heart of Tehran.
The Iranian capital has a large number of museums worth seeing
in addition to the Golestan Palace, including the Archaeological
Museum and the National Museum. Many other cultural sites are
inviting and worthy of a sojourn. Tehran’s bazaar is legendary
and one of the biggest in the world.
The traditional Zurkhaneh (House of Strength) in the center of
the bazaar is a special kind of sports venue: up to twenty five
athletes at a time emulate their forebears, swinging maces and
rings to the accompaniment of drums and tribal music. This
distinct form of athleticism, called bastani in Persian,
originated under the yoke of the Mongols, who prevented the
locals to engage in any kind of physical training. The Persians
trained in secret in order to be ready for the day when they
would free themselves from Mongolian rule.
Modern Tehran
Impressive testaments to Persian rule in this city include not
only historical monuments and the traditional souk, but also
numerous modern structures. The symbol of modern Iran is a more
recent building, the Shahyad (Freedom) Tower on Azadi Square,
built in 1971 during the reign of the last shah.
From the observation deck one has a fantastic view of the
entire city, and can see all the way to the distant, white
capped Elbur Mountains. Another important symbol of the Islamic
Republic of Iran, the Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum, is located
in southern part of the city. Four narrow minarets, each 90
metres high, surround its shining gold cupola.
Those who would prefer to leave the noise of the city head out
of Tehran travelling north, toward Darband and Darrake at the
foot of Tochal Mountain in the Elbur Range. While en route
through the northern neighbourhoods of Tehran, a visit to the
Saadabad Palace, the summer residence of the last shah, is
definitely worth making.
Once you reach your final destination, there is a chance to
enjoy the clear mountain air and to sojourn at one of many
traditional cafes and restaurants. For a taste of adventure, you
can also take the longest cable car ride in the world up Mt.
Tochal, and come down via one of the five ski slopes.
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